NP3

[oneeyedmac]

"Duracoat, Gunkote, etc also help to prevent corrosion if they're applied right. I don't know much about NP3, but from the little I read, it sounds to act much like a nitrided finish, improving the lubricity and lifespan of the gun's moving parts."

NP3 is a spray on finish just like Duracoat, GunKote, CeraKote, Birdsong etc from what I understand.

For what it's worth, Black Nitride can improve more than the gun's looks as the barrel is completely treated inside and out. From all reports the process can double barrel life and it actually increases the surface hardness of the metal. That being said none of my personal guns are black nitride coated except the melonite finish on my Glock 27 and that was applied at the factory.

[monteboy84]

For what it's worth, Black Nitride can improve more than the gun's looks as the barrel is completely treated inside and out. From all reports the process can double barrel life and it actually increases the surface hardness of the metal. That being said none of my personal guns are black nitride coated except the melonite finish on my Glock 27 and that was applied at the factory.

Bingo, it's a finish that actually makes a difference on the functionality and durability of a gun. The cool thing is that the more mainstream it becomes, the cheaper and more widespread it becomes in the firearm industry. It really doesn't cost any more than bluing, can be applied to stainless, and actually has properties that make it superior to all other finishes in a functional manner.

Recoil, I'll give/concede that all the various paint finishes really don't do anything but look pretty and cost money, but nitriding is a whole different ball-game. For the cost of it (Nothing in comparison to bluing), there's no reason that manufacturers shouldn't be using it.

-matt

[oneeyedmac]

Well, it seems to be a little more involved than bluing, doing it in a small shop would be a challenge. I believe they heat the metal to 1100 degrees or so. I know they'll only do steel (whether it be chrome moly or stainless) because most others things, like aluminum, will melt.

[Recoil]

Recoil, I'll give/concede that all the various paint finishes really don't do anything but look pretty and cost money, but nitriding is a whole different ball-game. For the cost of it (Nothing in comparison to bluing), there's no reason that manufacturers shouldn't be using it.

And I'll concede that nitriding is good as well, though it's less of a finish and more of a metal treatment in my mind, much like case hardening or anodizing, which penetrates into and actually alters the properties of the metal at the surface.  In these cases, you're actually changing the metal rather than just putting something on it.  I certainly see merit to that, sorta like how I joked about only giving a damn when someone develops steel that wont rust.

[oneeyedmac]

"And I'll concede that nitriding is good as well, though it's less of a finish and more of a metal treatment in my mind, much like case hardening or anodizing, which penetrates into and actually alters the properties of the metal at the surface.  In these cases, you're actually changing the metal rather than just putting something on it.  I certainly see merit to that, sorta like how I joked about only giving a damn when someone develops steel that wont rust."

Bingo, we have a winner, that's what I was trying so in-eloquently to say. I can't spell either.

[freeman1685]

Did I open a can of worms or what?  I just want to protect my gun from my own sweat.  I thank eveyone for their input, keep it coming, I want to make as informed a decision as I can.  Every time I strip my weapon down to clean it I find rust under the slide release and safety, from me sweating on it.  No matter what oil I use there is always rust, and it's pitting the metal.  THAT does effect functionality because it's working it's way into the slide rails.  As I said before, my sweat is VERY acidic.

[oneeyedmac]

The cheap answer to the sweat issue is probably Alumahyde II from Brownells, it's pretty good stuff for costing $10 in a rattle can. It goes on thick though so be careful on small parts. From there you can spend as much as you want.

[Recoil]

Or if you like the way the gun looks now, there's also Duracoat clear.  You need an airbrush, but you can pick one of those up cheap, over by the model kits in the toy section at Wal-Mart.